Seven Ways to Keep Your Yard Beautiful

This is a great time to clean up your yard for spring, regardless of the weather! Here are ten tips that will cover everything you need to know right now, from pruning to preventing crabgrass. There is a correct way to take care of your garden beds, lawn, and yard.

Being proactive is the key to effective lawn and yard care. It’s time to review our progress since we’ve invested so much in our property and home.

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Prune in the Late Winter and Early Spring

If you haven’t already, prune in the late winter to remove any broken or badly damaged branches caused by winter’s ice and snow.

In the latter part of the winter, all evergreen trees and shrubs should also have any unwanted lower branches removed.

Although not all trees and shrubs are pruned, the majority are. Got any shrubs that bloom? When a shrub should be pruned, the most important factors are when it blooms and whether it blooms on growth from the same or previous years.

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At the end of the winter or very early in the spring, before any new growth begins, vigorously prune summer-flowering shrubs! On “new” wood or wood that will grow this spring, they make their flower buds. Roses, butterfly bushes, panicle hydrangeas, smooth hydrangeas, and others are examples.

After the blooms of spring have faded, prune spring-flowering shrubs like wisteria, mophead hydrangeas, azalea, forsythia, and lilacs. If you prune too early, you will cut off their flowers and buds, which bloom on “old” wood from the previous season. To make your yard look more lively and inviting, consider adding flag banners as an additional decoration.

Clean Up Leaves Carefully

Even if you cleaned up some leaves in the fall, many trees, like oaks, shed leaves, and broken or fallen branches throughout the winter and well into the spring. It’s important to keep your lawn clear of debris, bulky piles of leaves, and layers of leaves to maintain the health of your lawn and protect your wood floor lamination in Seattle from mold, disease, and decay.

Now, let’s not get carried away and act like we need to remove every last leaf from our lawn in order to win the neighborhood beauty contest. Our wildlife and pollinators can survive the winter with a little leaf litter.

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Debris, bulky piles of leaves, and layers of leaves should all be removed. Mold, disease, and decay are all attracted here. Nonetheless, avoid raking into the wet ground. Wait until temperatures are in the high 40s or 50s before doing anything.

If you want to start a compost pile or already have one, Include those leaves in the heap. Otherwise, just mow in any thin layers of leaves with the first cut of the season, and they’ll also break down and give the soil nutrients and organic matter.

If you have perennial beds, you should wait until the weather has definitely warmed up and it feels like spring is here to stay before cutting down the spent perennial stems. Numerous predators (lacewings, parasitic wasps) and beneficial insects (ladybugs, native bees) are still “hibernating” in leaf litter or hollow plant stems.

As the weather warms up and daylight hours increase, they will “wake up.” Cut the spent plant stems and simply place them at the edge of your property or in the woods if you just can’t wait. The native bees will be appreciative!

Immediately address aggressive weeds!


Take care of weeds in the early spring. During the summer, longer hours of daylight will only make weeds that are invasive or aggressive worse. Their roots will get stronger as they grow, making it very hard to pull them out.

Good cultural practices are the most effective way to reduce the number of weeds in your lawn:

You can also choose to apply an organic or conventional “pre-emergent” herbicide to your lawn and allow clippings from the mower to return to the lawn. You can also skip fertilization in the spring. When the temperature in the top one inch of soil has been 55 degrees Fahrenheit for five days in a row (usually in March and April), this is the ideal time to apply a pre-emergent. When the dirt temperatures arrive at 55 degrees, yearly weed seeds start to sprout. A pre-emergent herbicide is ineffective once weeds are visible in your lawn.

Spray a traditional or organic post-emergent herbicide if you see weeds emerge in the spring. Broadleaf weed killer should not be applied until late spring after the weeds have flowered. This usually occurs six to eight weeks after a pre-emergent herbicide.) When applied evenly across the entire lawn, weed killers are most effective.

A note regarding dandelions: Dandelions are a common springtime perennial weed that can be pulled out with their roots or simply enjoyed for their yellow blooms. Dandelion greens can always be harvested when they are still young and tender if you maintain your yard without using chemicals. Note: If you don’t want dandelions the following year, cut off their heads before they germinate. However, if you want a more permanent solution to your dandelion problem, consider having a fascia replacement in Spring TX.

Seeding Bare Patches Carefully

Be careful in the winter, as traffic, snow plows, and pets may cause some damage to your yard. You might want to reseed a few places.

The problem is: A nonselective pre-emergent herbicide used in the spring to control crabgrass will also prevent grass seeds from growing; This is why seeding grass in the fall is best. However, if you simply cannot stand those bare patches, you can try spot-seeding them as soon as possible—by April—before applying any pre-emergent to control crabgrass. To ensure the best results for your lawn care in Redmond WA, it is important to follow these guidelines.

Give the seeds enough time to germinate and establish themselves. Don’t skip the pre-emergent weed control if this isn’t possible. It is preferable to maintain the majority of your yard; Repairs to the turf should be put off until the fall. If you’re looking for a professional plumber in Lynnwood WA to help with your yard maintenance and repairs, you’ll want to make sure you follow the right steps for successful seeding and weed control.

Scuff the area with a steel rake prior to seeding. Make the soil loosen. Compost should be smashed into the area. Apply grass seed to the area. Unless the area is heavily shaded, use a premium mix of sun and shade.) Maintain moist soil. Use straw mats or another material to cover the seeds. Even grass clippings are sufficient. You simply need to cover the area with something to keep the seeds in place.

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We would also recommend fertilizing any lawn spots ahead of time if you are applying pre-emergent herbicides at that time; The brown spots will be covered by shoots in a few weeks. Sod is a better option if the brown patches are too big or you just can’t wait.

While taking care of your lawn and garden, why not raise funds for your school by hosting a readathon school fundraiser? Not only will you be beautifying your outdoor space, but you will also be supporting a good cause. Make sure to promote the readathon event and encourage friends and family to participate by reading books and making donations. The funds raised from the event can be used to support various programs at your school.

Rake Thatch—Don’t Wait Until

It’s Too Early to Talk About Thatch It’s too early to talk about thatch, but we need to do it now because many people do it way too early. When we use the term “thatch,” we are referring to the matted areas that have perished; They might contain snow mold.

Thatch should not cover the ground more than 1/2 inch. Good raking will help germination, prevent disease, and increase airflow throughout the grass. But before you start raking, make sure you have the right tools for the job, like a good quality rake or wood custom doors for example. Raking up grass seeds will do more harm than good if the ground and grass aren’t sufficiently dry.

In Pinellas County real estate, a healthy lawn is essential for maintaining property value. One important step in maintaining a healthy lawn is dethatching. According to the general rule, if after walking, there are still footprints on the surface, it is still too wet to dethatch. However, it is crucial to rake as soon as the grass is still brown and dry to avoid damaging the healthy roots.

Avoid Fertilizing Too Early

The best time to fertilize is in the fall; Providing grass plants with the food they require to develop their root systems, aids in the construction of turf.

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However, fertilization is also done by a lot of people in the spring. Avoid fertilizing your plants too early in the season. The plant’s energy will be diverted too early into leaf development by this. Instead, the grass’s roots develop without phosphorus.

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In most regions, the best time to apply the first application of spring is in late spring, around May, when the grass is just beginning to turn green and you want a lush, green lawn. Before the heat of summer sets in and after the grass has established itself, fertilize. The plant will be able to replenish its food supply with regular feeding of 3/4 to 1 pound of fertilizer.

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Lightly apply fertilizer to the grass in the spring. Heavy nitrogen (N) fertilization is bad for grass and can also cause problems with diseases. The color of a healthy lawn is light, brilliant green; If it’s darker, too much nitrogen is present (which will also enter our water supply). Keep in mind that you can always begin with less and add more until you reach the desired shade.

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A mulching mower, which returns grass clippings to the soil, is another option. This not only makes your lawn look better, but it also saves you time and energy. The grass clippings dry up quickly because they contain up to 90% water. The grass clippings almost seem to disappear. Additionally, this is an excellent fertilizer because it returns 25% of the nutrients to the soil.

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If The Soil Is Compacted, Loosen It Up.

Do you have flower beds? Your garden beds’ soil may be completely compacted after the winter. Take off the thick layers of leaves that are covering the beds with evergreen ground cover. Leave the thin layers of leaves in your beds alone and mulch over them later. They will decompose and enrich your soil with organic matter. If you need help showcasing your beautiful garden, consider reaching out to a media production company in Philadelphia to capture its beauty on film.

After that, loosen the soil to make it easier for oxygen to reach the plant roots. For smaller areas, you can use hand tools, but tilling may be more beneficial for larger ones. Similarly, just like people with mobility issues need assistance with garden maintenance, they also require assistance when it comes to mobility. That’s why the development of autonomous vehicles for disabled is crucial.

When people walk on a grass lawn, the soil becomes compacted as well. We recommend that you aerate the lawn if you notice moss patches or signs of decline; This makes it easier for air and water to get to the root zone faster, which leads to more new growth and growth of the roots. However, fall is typically the best time to complete this.

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A lawn aerator can be rented from your neighborhood home improvement store. If you aerate in the spring, it’s critical to core aerate before the soil reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit. As the soil warms, you’re just making room for aggressive weed seeds to grow and inviting them in.

Additionally, moss may indicate an acidic lawn. Get a soil test, which is often free or can be done for a small fee through your local County Cooperative Extension office, if you want to grow grass with a neutral pH. Lime will need to be applied to your lawn if it has an acidic pH; The Extension staff can give you advice.